Nigel Slater's pork pie recipe | Food (2024)

Nigel Slater recipes

With the stock, the filling and the pastry, making your own pork pie can seem like a daunting prospect. But get stuck in – the finished product is a thing of beauty

Nigel Slater

Sun 23 May 2010 00.04 BST

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It has never really occurred to me to make my own pork pie. I mean, why would anyone want to, with so many good ones around in the shops? You can't walk more than a hundred yards down the average high street without coming upon a perfectly acceptable version.

Well, let me tell you why. Rarely have I enjoyed making anything quite so much: the bubbling stock, with its grotesque peeping trotters; the soft, warm dough to mould into shape like the potter I always wanted to be; the proud moment of prizing the huge, heavy, porky thing from its tin. Secretly I probably just fancied the challenge of making one to see if I could do it. What I hadn't expected was to end up with something so stonkingly good.

I am not always sure about the fillings for some commercial pies. Too pink, too anonymous. I wanted something with clearly defined nuggets of meat, pinky brown and lightly spiced. Lots of pork belly finely chopped and a little minced bacon were obvious choices for the basis of the filling, but my butcher suggested some pork shoulder, too. Hot water pastry is something I haven't made since domestic science lessons, unless you count the time I thought it would be a good idea for the Christmas mince pies. I had forgotten how much I like the forbidden fruit that is good old-fashioned lard.

I should explain that I am exceptionally fond of a slice of pork pie. Opening the fridge on a hot afternoon to be greeted by a cool, crimp-edged pie and its hidden treasure of generously seasoned pork is one of my favourite moments of summer. I can never work out which bit I like best, having long ago moved on from being the kid who diligently scraped off every last dot of jelly before he would touch the meat and pastry of his Melton Mowbray.

So here I am doing battle with pastry that would be difficult enough to deal with if it was cold, but this stuff is warm and slithery and seemingly incapable of standing up on its own. The faster I mould it up the side of my impromptu cake tin (a stand-in for a traditional wooden pork pie mould) the faster it slides down. Leaving it to cool a bit further sorts out the problem, and suddenly a messy job becomes a pleasingly tactile one. Pressing the warm pastry up the sides of the cake tin is like being back in art lessons at school. Will I be as proud of this as I was of my first misshapen pot? The one that my parents kept trying to put away in the cupboard. Where the dough slides down a little I simply hold it in place with one hand while stuffing in the seasoned meat filling with the other.

Seasoning is the make-or-break moment with something like this. Sage is a knee-jerk seasoning, but I also add chopped thyme leaves and ground mace. This latter flavour is probably one of the least-used spices – it is the ground outer casing of the nutmeg – and gives a warm and dusky note to pâtés. It is used subtly so that it works hand-in-glove with the other seasonings. I'm not sure you ever want to put something in your mouth and think: Ah, yes, mace.

What with the stock, the filling and the pastry, making a pork pie is something to file under "a bit of performance". Yet it is undoubtedly a thing of beauty – plump, handsome, yet unmistakably homely. Something I wouldn't hesitate to make again. Next time I might try Jane Grigson's idea of adding a little anchovy essence to the filling, or try it using a proper wooden mould instead of a make-do version with the cake tin. But then I rather like making do.

Pork pie

1kg boned pork shoulder
250g pork belly
250g streaky bacon
2 bushy sprigs of thyme
2 sage leaves
½ tsp ground mace
½ tsp ground white pepper
2 good pinches ground nutmeg

For the pastry:

200g lard
220g water
575g flour
1 beaten egg
1 x 20cm cake tin

For the stock:

bones from the pork (left)
2 pig's trotters
1 onion
1 small carrot
1 small bunch of parsley stalks
1 rib of celery
6 black peppercorns

DIRECTIONS

Make the filling

You need to chop the pork into small cubes, about 5mm in size. You could mince it, but the texture will be much more interesting if you can bear to cut it by hand. Or you could chop half, then whizz the other briefly in the food processor.

Finely chop the bacon.

Remove the thyme leaves from their stems, add the sage leaves and chop both finely. Mix the herbs into the chopped meats together with the mace, white pepper, nutmeg and 1 tsp each of salt and coarsely ground black pepper.

Make the pastry

Put the lard and water into a small saucepan and bring to the boil. Sift the flour with a good pinch of salt into a large bowl. Pour the hot lard and water into the flour, mix with a wooden spoon, then leave until cool enough to handle. The pastry must be warm when you start to work it.

Set the oven at 180C/gas mark 4. Lightly grease and flour your mould or cake tin (with removable bottom). Pull off a quarter of the pastry and roll it into a lid that will fit the top of the cake tin. Roll the remaining pastry to fit the base of the tin. Lay it in the bottom, then firmly push the dough up the sides with your hands. It should spread quite easily. If it slides down, leave it to cool a bit more. Make certain there are no holes or tears. This is crucial, as the jelly will leak out. Spoon the pork filling into the lined cake tin and press it down. It should come almost to the top of the pastry.

Brush the edges of the pastry above the meat with beaten egg. Lower the lid into place and press tightly to seal with the edges. Poke a small hole in the lid to let out the steam and put the tin on a baking sheet. Bake for 30 minutes, then lower the heat to 160C/gas mark 3 and bake for 90 minutes until the pastry is pale gold. Brush with the beaten egg and return to the oven for 30 minutes.

Make the stock

Put the bones into a deep saucepan with the onion, carrot, parsley stalks and the celery rib. Cover with water and bring to the boil. Lower the heat to a simmer and leave the liquid to cook for an hour, watching the water level carefully and topping up where necessary.

Remove from the heat, decant the liquid into a bowl and leave to cool. Refrigerate overnight. If it has set very firmly, simply remove the fat from the top of the stock, transfer to a saucepan and bring to the boil. If it is still on the runny side, then remove the fat as before, pour into a saucepan and boil hard until it is reduced to about 400ml. Season carefully with salt.

When the pie is ready, pour the stock into a jug and then pour it carefully through the hole in the top of the pastry. A funnel is invaluable here. Leave the pie to cool, then refrigerate overnight.


Email Nigel at nigel.slater@observer.co.uk or visit theguardian.com/profile/nigelslaterfor all his recipes in one place

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Nigel Slater's pork pie recipe | Food (2024)

FAQs

What is the difference between a pork pie and a Melton Mowbray pork pie? ›

The sides of a Melton Mowbray Pork Pie are bow-shaped as they are baked free standing, whereas most other pork pies are straight-sided being baked in hoops. The meat used is fresh pork which is naturally grey when cooked, liked roast pork, not pink like other pork pies which used cured pork.

What is the jelly in pork pies made of? ›

Traditionally, the jelly is made using a pig's trotter, and there is a recipe for this on page 98 of the book, but if you are short of time you can make the simple version below. In most traditional recipes the pastry is also hand-raised, which means that it is shaped without the help of a mould.

What is dinky pork pie? ›

British Quality Assured Pork with delicious jelly, encased in hot water pastry crust.

What's the difference between a stand pie and a pork pie? ›

The main difference is that the pork in a stand pie is cured, making it pink. The meat in a Melton Mowbray pie is not cured and takes on a greyish colour.

Why is there no jelly in pork pies? ›

While you can make a pork pie without the jelly, traditional pork pies have gelatin (some boiled pig trotters) added to preserve and keep the meat moist. You will often see a small hole in the lid of the pie where the jelly has been poured in.

What town is famous for pork pies? ›

But the pork pie does have that regional identity, with its origins from Melton Mowbray. Pork pies are now produced all over the UK but it is the Melton Mowbray Pork Pie that is most famous.

Can you buy the jelly for pork pies? ›

500g pack of Jelflaval, powdered gelatine. Ideal for home users who want to use smaller quantities to use in their pies.

What is the slang for pork pies? ›

Apart from the literal meaning of actual pies filled with pork, 'pork pies' is co*ckney rhyming slang for 'lies'. With rhyming slang the actual portion that rhymes is often dropped in order to further confuse the outsider, so it becomes 'porkies'. So, someone 'telling porkies' is a liar.

Do they still put jelly in pork pies? ›

This filling shrinks during cooking, so once the pie has cooled, a savoury jelly is poured in through a hole on top to stop it drying out. Ye Old Pork Pie Shoppe, winner of the Melton Mowbray pork pie category at the British Pie Awards, serves both the classic version and less traditional options.

What is a growler pork pie? ›

In Yorkshire, pork pies are often served hot, accompanied with gravy or with mushy peas and mint sauce. It is also a common combination served at Bonfire Night celebrations. In Yorkshire slang a pork pie is sometimes called a "growler", a term probably derived from the "NAAFI growler" of earlier naval and army slang.

What is massachusetts pie? ›

Upon the announcement of the official state dessert of Massachusetts, the Boston Cream Pie was proclaimed on December 12, 1996. The pie defeated candidates such as the toll house cookie and Indian pudding. Not only that, but chocolate chip cookies were also invented in Massachusetts!

What is the most expensive pork pie in the world? ›

Priced at £100, the costly snack has been made with the traditional ingredients of pork and pastry. However, it is garnished with a range of lavish toppings. The additional special ingredients include black summer truffle, beluga caviar and edible 24 carat gold.

Why are pork pies eaten cold? ›

British pork pies are meant to be eaten cold or at room temperature. Although some people eat them cold, it is better to eat at room temperature as the flavours will start to sing, rather than shiver. You see, there is that smashing jelly bit in the middle and it would simply melt if the pork pie is heated.

Should pork pies be eaten hot or cold? ›

That aside, while a pork pie should definitely be served at room temperature rather than fridge-cold, so that its flavours can sing, there seems something deeply incongruent about hot pork pie.

What part of a pig is in a pork pie? ›

For the Filling

First, finely dice the pork shoulder, removing any sinewy bits. I went for quite a coarse dice, about 1/2-1cm square. Then finely dice the bacon too and mix all three meats together in a large mixing bowl. Add the rest of the ingredients and combine well.

Are pork pies still made in Melton Mowbray? ›

Dickinson & Morris are the original pioneers of the Melton Mowbray Pork Pie. First hand-raised by baker, Mary Dickinson in 1851 and still made today with over 170 years of expertise, skill and craft.

What three things are required for a pork pie to be called a Melton Mowbray Pork Pie? ›

For a pie to be considered a Melton Mowbray pie it must meet 3 main criteria.
  • It must be baked within the Protected Geographic Indication (PGI) boundary of Melton Mowbray. ...
  • Made with British uncured pork (grey in appearance, not pink like ham). ...
  • Must be baked free-standing, not supported in a tin or hoop.

What's special about a Melton Mowbray? ›

Melton Mowbray pies have to be baked free-standing, which leads to the characteristic bulge, whereas most commercial pies are baked in hoops to produce a regimented, uniformly shaped product. And finally, they'll use a jelly made from commercial gelatine, with flavourings added to mimic the pork flavour.

What is special about a Melton Mowbray? ›

Melton Mowbray Pork Pies are made with hot water crust pastry. They are not cooked in a case, unlike other pork pies, which gives them their characteristic bowed sides. Not cooking in a case also contribute to making the pastry a deep golden brown colour on the outside.

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